Seeing Jacmel

Jacmel is a beautiful city. In addition to the city's lovely architectural tradition, winding roads, and lively arts scenes, the natural beauty surrounding the small urban area is breathtaking. To get there, we were driven by a very kind Haitian doctor we met through a fascinating American doing research on community organizations and alternatives to traditional NGOs. We had to drive through Carrefour and a few other areas near Port-au-Prince before we reached the road to Jacmel. That road was very dangerous because of heavy fog in the night, so we crept uphill very slowly while the sounds of the coqui enchanted us. The road to Jacmel really does need more lights, especially since a taptap apparently fell over the mountain and almost everyone inside died that same weekend I was there.

When we finally arrived at Jacmel, we stopped by Lakou New York in the night. Some beggar asked us for five dollars (US), but we just said no and kept walking. Apparently, Lakou New York was finished recently and is a beautiful little area or promenade with a beach. The kind doctor explained to us that the nearby restaurant retained its tradition of hosting prostitutes, travelers and tourists eager to find cash and a good time. 

We spent the night in lodging discovered for us by our new doctor friend. Before that, we stopped by his girlfriend's family for some delicious, homemade Haitian food. The family owned all kinds of old Haitian records and I was able to practice my Kreyol and Spanish with the daughters of the family, highly educated young Haitian women. The family showed us that typical Haitian hospitality that made the night more welcoming and amplified the beauty of Jacmel. 

Unfortunately, we didn't get to explore much of the city itself, since the first thing we did the next morning was take off for Bassin Bleu after eating soup joumou for breakfast with the hospitable Jacmel family. We didn't really know what we were getting ourselves into that day. And despite warnings, we decided we had to see it if we are going to be in the Jacmel area. It had rained the same day we ascended, so the ordeal to see Bassin Bleu was very difficult. Nonetheless, the drive to nearby Bassin Bleu was beautiful (the mountains, colors, and magic of the countryside is mesmerizing). 

After seeing Bassin Bleu and paying our guides, I heard a small twoubadou ensemble perform. That was exciting and not so common a sight in Port-au-Prince. The band even had the Haitian version of the Cuban marimbula! Unfortunately, I didn't catch a photograph of the musicians...

We drove around Jacmel again, stopping by the friendly house of our friend's girlfriend. They treated us to dinner and we relaxed, appreciating the area. We ended up stopping by the beach for about 20 or 30 minutes, just enjoying the breeze and trying to avoid being bitten by too many mosquitoes. After that, we dropped off our friend's girlfriend and returned to Port-au-Prince. Our stay in Jacmel was too short, so I'll have to return someday. I want to see the house where Simon Bolivar stayed, even though it has apparently fallen into ruin. I also want to see more of the distinct architecture and historic buildings.  Oh, and the delicious coffee! Haitian coffee is rich and of a type quite uncommon in the US. I never tried it before until just last week, and it is delicious. 

I particularly enjoyed some of the older buildings in the town center, as well as driving by the Hotel Florita. The city seems to be quite proud of its heritage and tranquility, making it a perfect getaway from the crowded, polluted and sometimes dangerous Port-au-Prince. The only downside was the blackout at the place we were staying overnight, and the extremely loud konpa from a nearby bar that kept me up all night. I loved how the narrow streets and main streets hosted large numbers of motorcyclists. In addition, many of the people in the area looked like my godmother and grandmother, who had ancestors in the Jacmel area and used to live in Jacmel itself or the La Vallée de Jacmel. Next time I come this way, I hope the road to Bainet has been improved so I can see Bainet, La Vallée, and more of Jacmel.