Saut d'Eau

Saut d'Eau ranks high on the list of serene, tranquil beauty. Although I could not get a good photograph of the two waterfalls on my cheap cellphone camera, the entire area around it is breathtaking. A kind Haitian doctor who was taking some relatives there invited us to join them on the ride from Port-au-Prince on Saturday, and we leaped at the opportunity to see a different part of Haiti. Since I had never been to Mirebalais or the Central Plateau, I was hoping to see some of the town, nearby Saut d'Eau, and the Lake Peligre Dam. However, since we did not leave Port-au-Prince until later in the afternoon, we really only had time to see Saut d'Eau before sunset and enjoy a meal at the nearby restaurant. 

However, it was entirely worthwhile. Driving out of Port-au-Prince, we were witnesses to some of the post-earthquake housing built on the outskirts of the city, beyond Croix des Bouquets. The homes actually look rather nice, although one cannot help but think their great distance from Port-au-Prince proper ensures isolation from employment in Port-au-Prince. After passing through there, we drove up a mountain and enjoyed a mostly even road until we exited Mirebalais. The view of Port-au-Prince from the mountain was spectacular, while Mirebalais offered its quaint charms of provincial Haitian life. The roundabout intersection featured some old government buildings and the city appeared lively. We even stopped by the solar-powered hospital in Mirebalais to check out this joint venture of Partners in Health and the Haitian state. 

And, finally, the main show? Saut d'Eau itself was mesmerizing. Even though the waterfall supposedly did not exist until after the 1842 earthquake, one feels as if one is entering a sacred space that must have been a site of religious pilgrimage to pre-colonial peoples of the island. Once there, local guides will help those who can to climb the waterfalls. I could only go halfway up the waterfall because I didn't feel safe traipsing over slippery surfaces, but the entire experience was unforgettable. After cleansing ourselves in the sacred water, we enjoyed a Haitian meal at the nearby restaurant before packing up and driving back to Port-au-Prince. Although our Saut d'Eau experience was not that of the busy pilgrimage in July, when Ville Bonheur comes to life, seeing this region of Haiti and the natural landscape left an indelible impression in our minds.